It may be presumed that the Portuguese Government is well apprized of this circumstance and of the little risque they run in being deprived of so important a possession,else it will not be easy to penetrate the reasons which induce them to treat the troops who compose the garrison with such cruel negligence.Their regiments were ordered out with a promise of being relieved,and sent back to Europe at the end of three years,in conformity to which they settled all their domestic arrangements.
But the faith of Government has been broken,and at the expiration of twenty years,all that is left to the remnant of these unfortunate men,is to suffer in submissive silence.I was one evening walking with a Portuguese officer,when this subject was started,and on my telling him,that such a breach of public honour to English troops would become a subject of parliamentary enquiry,he seized my hand with great eagerness,"Ah,Sir!"exclaimed he,"yours is a free country--we"!----His emotions spoke what his tongue refused.
As I am mentioning the army,I cannot help observing,that I saw nothing here to confirm the remark of Mr.Cook,that the inhabitants of the place,whenever they meet an officer of the garrison,bow to him with the greatest obsequiousness;and by omitting such a ceremony,would subject themselves to be knocked down,though the other seldom deigns to return the compliment.
The interchange of civilities is general between them,and seems by no means extorted.The people who could submit to such insolent superiority,would,indeed,deserve to be treated as slaves.
The police of the city is very good.Soldiers patrole the streets frequently,and riots are seldom heard of.The dreadful custom of stabbing,from motives of private resentment,is nearly at an end,since the church has ceased to afford an asylum to murderers.In other respects,the progress of improvement appears slow,and fettered by obstacles almost insurmountable,whose baneful influence will continue,until a more enlightened system of policy shall be adopted.From morning to night the ears of a stranger are greeted by the tinkling of the convent bells,and his eyes saluted by processions of devotees,whose adoration and levity seem to keep equal pace,and succeed each other in turns."Do you want to make your son sick of soldiering?Shew him the Trainbands of London on a field-day."Let him who would wish to give his son a distaste to Popery,point out to him the sloth,the ignorance,and the bigotry of this place.
Being nearly ready to depart by the 1st of September,as many officers as possible went on that day to the palace to take leave of his Excellency,the Viceroy of the Brazils,to whom we had been previously introduced;who on this,and every other occasion,was pleased to honour us with the most distinguished marks of regard and attention.Some part,indeed,of the numerous indulgencies we experienced during our stay here,must doubtless be attributed to the high respect in which the Portuguese held Governor Phillip,who was for many years a captain in their navy,and commanded a ship of war on this station:in consequence of which,many privileges were extended to us,very unusual to be granted to strangers.
We were allowed the liberty of making short excursions into the country,and on these occasions,as well as when walking in the city,the mortifying custom of having an officer of the garrison attending us was dispensed with on our leaving our names and ranks,at the time of landing,with the adjutant of orders at the palace.It happened,however,sometimes,that the presence of a military man was necessary to prevent imposition in the shopkeepers,who frequently made a practice of asking more for their goods than the worth of them.In which case an officer,when applied to,always told us the usual price of the commodity with the greatest readiness,and adjusted the terms of the purchase.
On the morning of the fourth of September we left Rio de Janeiro,amply furnished with the good things which its happy soil and clime so abundantly produce.The future voyager may with security depend on this place for laying in many parts of his stock.Among these may be enumerated sugar,coffee,rum,port wine,rice,tapioca,and tobacco,besides very beautiful wood for the purposes of household furniture.
Poultry is not remarkably cheap,but may be procured in any quantity;as may hops at a low rate.The markets are well supplied with butcher's meat,and vegetables of every sort are to be procured at a price next to nothing;the yams are particularly excellent.Oranges abound so much,as to be sold for sixpence a hundred;and limes are to be had on terms equally moderate.
Bananas,cocoa nuts,and guavas,are common;but the few pineapples brought to market are not remarkable either for flavour,or cheapness.
Besides the inducements to lay out money already mentioned,the naturalist may add to his collection by an almost endless variety of beautiful birds and curious insects,which are to be bought at a reasonable price,well preserved,and neatly assorted.
I shall close my account of this place by informing strangers,who may come here,that the Portuguese reckon their money in rees,an imaginary coin,twenty of which make a small copper piece called a 'vintin',and sixteen of these last a 'petack'.Every piece is marked with the number of rees it is worth,so that a mistake can hardly happen.English silver coin has lost its reputation here,and dollars will be found preferable to any other money.
