There are several wires running through the centre of the sides, which it is necessary to cover with cloth or paper to absorb all the moisture that may be made by applying the heat, and the buffs are put in and taken out at the open end.
In order that the heat may be as nearly uniform as possible, an iron bar one inch wide, eighteen inches long and one half inch thick, is so bent that the centre is one quarter inch from the bottom of the box, and that at least two inches of each end come in contact with the bottom; this being riveted on the bottom, and a lamp with a small blaze applied to the centre of the bar of iron.
This will constitute one of the best and cheapest buff dryers in use.
It may be suspended from the wall by placing wires around it, or it may stand upon legs. Perhaps a more convenient plan is to place it under the workbench in a similar position to a drawer.
One precaution is necessary: when first heating the dryer, apply but a very gentle heat. This will prevent an accumulation of moisture, which would otherwise pass off in steam, coming in contact with the buff, thus causing a dampness. Another caution:
never have the temperature of the air in the heater more than ten degrees above that which surrounds it.
When wheels are used, they should be encased in a sheet iron or wood case.
All those made for our market are provided in this respect.
Keeping Buffs in Order.--This is one of the most important objects to arrest the attention of the operator. Every buff is more or less liable to get out of order by dust falling upon or coming in contact with the polishing powder employed in cleaning the plate. The edge of every plate should be thoroughly wiped and freed from any material that may adhere while cleaning.
I have adopted the following method, which proves highly successful:
Rub the buff leather, holding the face down, with the sharp edge of a pair of shears or a piece of glass. This brings out any portion of the skin which may have become matted from any moisture, and also takes out any substance imbedded in it, and prevents it from scratching. Then, with a stiff brush, rub the buff well, and it will be found to work well.
This same process employ on wheels and hand buffs every morning, or oftener, as occasion requires.
Preparing Buffs.--Two of these are necessary. That part of the stick to be covered should be about eighteen or twenty inches long, and three wide, and made crowning on the face from one end to the other, about one half inch.
Before covering, these are to be padded with two or three thicknesses of Canton flannel. The buff should not be too hard, but padded with flannel, so that by drawing it over the plate, it may touch across the surface.
The only proper material for buffs is prepared buckskin; and if prepared in a proper manner, this needs nothing but to be tacked upon the stick.
There are several varieties of wheels employed; the one most generally adopted is Lewis' patent, which consists of several varieties of wheels.
Any operator can make a suitable wheel on the same plan of a turning lathe.
To Clean Buckskins.--When the operator is compelled to purchase an unprepared buckskin, the following is a good process for cleaning it:
There is always in the buckskin leather that is purchased, more or less of an oily matter, which is acquired in its preparation, sometimes even amounting, to a third of its weight.
The following is the mode of ridding it of this noxious ingredient:
Dissolve, in about six or seven quarts of filtered water, about five ounces of potash; when dissolved, wash with the solution an ordinary buckskin; when it has been well stirred in the liquid, the water becomes very soapy, owing to the combination of the potash with the oily matters contained in the skin. Throw away this solution and use some fresh water without potash and rather tepid;change it several times until it remains quite limpid.
Then gently stretch the skin to dry in an airy shaded place.
When thoroughly dried, rub it well between the hands.
It thus becomes very pliant and velvet-like.
Reflectors for Taking Views.--There have been excellent cameras introduced for taking views, but the time of exposure, which is increased in proportion to the focal length, is considered an objection; consequently many adhere to the old plan of using the speculum, or rather, substitute a mirror.
I now have one which I have used for several years and find it equal to any article of the kind have ever tried.
One is easily made by a tin man, at a trifling expense.
Procure a piece of best plate looking-glass, two and a half by five inches for a quarter, or four by eight for a half-sized camera;put a piece of pasteboard of the same size on the back, to protect the silvering, and stick around the edge in the same manner as in putting up a picture. Take a sheet of tin for the large size, or a half sheet for the other;place the glass crosswise in the centre; bend the ends of the tin over the edge of the glass and turn them back so as to form a groove to hold the glass, and still allow it to slide out and in.
These ends of the tin must be turned out flaring, that they may not reflect in the glass.
Have a tin band about an inch wide made to fit close on the end of the camera tube; place it on, and taking the tin containing the glass, bring it to an angle of forty-five degrees with the tube, extending nearly the whole length of the glass in front of the lenses;lap the loose ends of the tin on each side of the tin rim, and having your camera turned on the side to throw the view lengthwise, arrange the exact angle by examining the image on the ground-glass. When you have it exactly right, hold it while it is soldered fast to the band.
Take out your glass and stain the tin black, to prevent reflection.
CHEMICALS.
