TOGARASHI
TUNA
IN MINI WON TON BOWLS
Tuna con chile Japonés en tazones peque?os de wonton
Japan meets Mexico in this tasty twist on the taco theme. Miniature won ton wrappers are baked into small bowls, then filled with sushi rice, grilled tuna, and mango salsa. Be sure to use short-grain sushi rice-the cooked rice should be somewhat sticky.
SERVES 6 TO 8 AS AN APPETIZER
FOR THE MINI WON TON BOWLS:
Canola oil, in a pump sprayer, or nonstick cooking oil spray
16 won ton wrappers
FOR THE MANGO-TOMATO SALSA:
? ripe mango, cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
1 ripe plum tomato, seeded and cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
? Fresno or jalape?o chile, preferably red, seeded and minced
1 tablespoon finely chopped pickled ginger
1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE SUSHI RICE:
2 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
Kosher salt
? cup (100 g) short-grain rice for sushi
6 ounces (170 g) skinless sushi-grade ahi tuna, cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
1 teaspoon shichimi togarashi
? ripe Hass avocado, cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
? cup (120 ml) Chipotle A?oli (this page), in a squeeze bottle
1 Make the won ton bowls: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 350°F (175°C). Spray 16 cups in two muffin tins with oil.
2 Fit a won ton wrapper into each cup, pleating the wrapper as needed to fit. Press the wrapper firmly into the bottom and corners of the cup. Bake until the wrappers are crisp and golden, about 7 minutes. Let them cool in the tins. Carefully remove the cooled cups from the tins. (The cups can be stored at room temperature for up to 4 hours.)
3 Make the salsa: Purée half of the mango in a blender. Transfer the purée to a medium bowl. Add the remaining mango, the tomato, chile, ginger, and cilantro and mix. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and set aside. (The salsa can be stored at room temperature for up to 2 hours.)
4 Make the sushi rice: Heat the vinegar, sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt together in a small nonreactive saucepan over low heat, stirring constantly, just until the sugar and salt are dissolved. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and set aside.
5 Rinse out the saucepan. Add the rice, 1 cup (240 ml) water, and ? teaspoon salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and tightly cover the saucepan. Cook until the rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid, about 20 minutes.
6 Transfer the hot rice to a shallow glass or ceramic bowl. (The rice will cool more quickly in a wide nonmetal container.) Using a wooden spatula, gradually stir in the vinegar mixture-the rice should be shiny and sticky with a salty sweet-and-sour flavor. Let it cool. (The rice can be covered and refrigerated for up to 4 hours. Remove it from the refrigerator 1 hour before using.)
7 Season the tuna all over with the togarashi. Heat a large nonstick skillet over high heat. Add the tuna and cook, stirring once, just until it is seared but still very rare, about 30 seconds. Transfer it to a bowl.
8 Divide the rice among the won ton bowls, followed by the tuna. Top each with a spoonful of salsa, a few pieces of diced avocado, and a squirt of the a?oli. Serve immediately.
CRISPY
SHRIMP
WITH AJí AMARILLO SAUCE
Chicharrón de camarones con salsa de ají amarillo
These battered and sauced fried shrimp are a sure bet to serve to buddies during a Sunday afternoon game in front of the TV with a frosty cerveza. The only problem is that no one will pay attention to what's on the screen-these are that good. I use low-gluten flour to make the crispiest batter (a trick I learned from Japanese tempura masters). While the ají amarillo is my first choice for the sauce, it is certainly not the only option. Use whatever hot sauce you like, or even adobo from canned chipotles.
SERVES 4
FOR THE AJí AMARILLO MAYONNAISE:
? cup (120 ml) mayonnaise
1 tablespoon condensed milk or heavy cream
1 tablespoon ají amarillo paste, or 2 teaspoons adobo from canned chipotle chilies or your favorite hot sauce
1 teaspoon rice vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE CRISPY SHRIMP:
1? pounds (680 g) large (31 to 40 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 cup (240 ml) buttermilk
? cup (35 g) quick-mixing all-purpose flour, such as Wondra
? cup (35 g) cornstarch
? cup (35 g) white rice flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
? teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Canola oil, for deep-frying
? cup (75 g) drained and coarsely chopped Pickled Jalape?os (this page) or store-bought jalape?os en escabeche or nacho slices
Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
Lime wedges, for serving
1 Make the ají amarillo mayonnaise: Whisk together the mayonnaise, milk, ají amarillo, and vinegar in a medium bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour. (The sauce can be refrigerated for up to 1 day. Let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour before using.)
2 Make the crispy shrimp: Toss the shrimp with the buttermilk in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate them for 30 minutes to 4 hours.
3 To serve, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 200°F (90°C). Place a wire cooling rack over a large rimmed baking sheet.
4 Sift the all-purpose flour, cornstarch, and rice flour together in a large bowl. Whisk in the salt and pepper. Drain the shrimp in a large colander, but do not rinse them.
5 Pour in enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a large saucepan and heat it over high heat until the oil reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. In batches, toss the shrimp in the flour mixture, shake off the excess coating, and carefully add them to the hot oil. Deep-fry them until crisp and golden brown, about 2? minutes. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the shrimp to the wire rack and keep them warm in the oven while frying the remaining shrimp.
6 Transfer the fried shrimp to a large bowl. Dollop the ají mayonnaise over the shrimp and toss them together. Divide the shrimp evenly among four soup bowls. Sprinkle them with the jalape?os and cilantro. Serve immediately, with the lime wedges.
BRISKET
NACHOS
WITH CHIPOTLE CHEESE SAUCE
Nachos de res con queso al chipotle
Forget any opinions you may have about boring fast-food nachos. Moist brisket and homemade cheese sauce make the others pale in comparison to these super-nachos. One secret: For a smooth sauce with the right Tex-Mex flavor, Velveeta really is the key.
SERVES 4 TO 6
FOR THE CHIPOTLE CHEESE SAUCE:
1 tablespoon canola oil
? cup (80 g) finely chopped yellow onion
1 small plum tomato, seeded and cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
1 canned chipotle chile in adobo, finely chopped
? cup (180 ml) heavy cream
8 ounces (225 g) pasteurized cheese product, such as Velveeta, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
One 8-ounce (225-g) bag tortilla chips
2 cups (600 g) Shredded Beef Filling with Tomatoes and Chilies (this page), heated
1 cup (175 g) Pico de Gallo (this page)
1 ripe Hass avocado, cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped Pickled Jalape?os (this page) or store-bought jalape?os en escabeche or nacho slices
1 Make the cheese sauce: Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the tomato and chipotle and cook until the tomato is beginning to soften, about 2 minutes more. Add the cream and bring it to a simmer. Reduce the heat to very low. In batches, add the cheese product, stirring until it melts. Stir in the cilantro. Keep the sauce warm. (The sauce can be transferred to a bowl, cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Reheat it over very low heat, whisking often.)
2 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
3 Spread the chips in a large heatproof serving dish. Bake until the chips are warm, about 5 minutes. Remove the dish from the oven. Scatter the shredded brisket over the chips. Drizzle them with the warm cheese sauce. Top with the pico de gallo, avocado, and jalape?os. Serve hot.
DEEP-FRYING
There is only one way to give food that irresistible crunchy texture that we all love: deep-frying. Latin cooks know this, and many classic dishes use this age-old cooking technique. There is also a historical reason for deep-frying food, as rural cooks often had stoves, but not ovens, so it was much more common to cook on the stovetop. Here are some tips for great deep-fried food every time.
THE RIGHT OIL: Just about any kind of standard cooking oil (canola, vegetable, and even olive) works well for deep-frying. Some cooks recommend grapeseed or peanut oil because of their high smoking points of above 450°F (230°C). The smoking point is the temperature where the heated oil begins to smoke and decompose, affecting its flavor. But deep-frying temperatures occur around 350°F (175°C), so there is no need to buy one of these more expensive oils.
KEEP IT DEEP: You can use either a large saucepan or a skillet for deep-frying. However, it is important that the oil is deep enough to float the food. Do not skimp on the oil! Pour in enough oil to come about halfway up the sides of the receptacle. If you are using a skillet, be sure that it has sides at least 2 inches (5 cm) high.
TAKING THE TEMPERATURE: Clip-on deep-frying thermometers have become antiquated. To get an oil temperature reading in seconds, use an instant-read thermometer dipped in the hot oil. Often, a classic clip-on thermometer won't give an accurate reading because the end of the probe doesn't dip far enough into the oil.
Even though I recommend using an instant-read thermometer, there are ways to tell if the oil is ready without one. First, the oil will shimmer slightly in the pan. Add a piece of food (a bit of tortilla or bread) to the oil-it should immediately float to the top of the oil and start to bubble. If the oil isn't hot enough, the food will sink.
DON'T CROWD THE FOOD: The food to be fried should be added to the hot oil in batches. If too much food is fried at the same time, the oil temperature will drop and the food will get soggy. Oil with the proper hot temperature (from 325° to 375°F/165° to 190°C) forces the moisture from the food's surface, making it crispy. Oil that is too cool will simply soak into the food. The right amount of food depends on the size of the cooking receptacle-the food should "swim" in the oil without crowding.
The oil temperature will lower a bit during cooking because of adding the cooler food. Always let the oil reheat to the proper temperature before adding another batch of food.
PRACTICE PROPER DRAINING: Draining on paper towels (or even a brown paper bag) is fine for crisp items like tortillas. But for breaded foods, skip the towels, as the steam given off by the coating will collect where it comes into contact with the paper and make the food soggy. The optimal way to drain fried food is on a wire cooling rack set over a large rimmed baking sheet, allowing the oil to drip off.
A wire spider is the best utensil for removing the fried food from the oil. You'll find this inexpensive tool, which looks like a small wire basket on a handle, at Asian markets (it is indispensible for cooking in a wok) and kitchenware shops. A slotted spoon is OK, but use one with large perforations so the oil quickly drains back into the saucepan.
KEEP IT WARM: Deep-fried food is always best served freshly cooked and warm. To hold the food for a few minutes while cooking subsequent batches, keep it warm on the cooling rack over the baking sheet in a very low oven set to 200°F (90°C).
TOSS THE OIL: It is a hassle to find room in the refrigerator to store leftover oil, which can go rancid before you use it again. Just dispose of the cooled used oil according to the advice of your local waste management authority.
SHRIMP & BACON
QUESADILLAS
Quesadillas con camarones y tocino
I love how the combination of shrimp and bacon, two ingredients with slightly sweet flavors, plays off of spicy chilies. A quesadilla (or two or three) is a fun appetizer, but it is also a good lunch or supper dish.
SERVES 4
3 slices bacon
12 ounces (340 g) large (31 to 40 count) shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon canola oil
? teaspoon salt
1 cup (115 g) shredded sharp cheddar cheese
2 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped Pickled Jalape?os (this page) or store-bought jalape?os en escabeche or nacho slices
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds (optional)
Twelve 6-inch (15-cm) flour tortillas
1 Cook the bacon in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until it is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to paper towels to drain. Let it cool. Clean the pan and set it aside.
2 Toss together the shrimp, chili powder, oil, and salt in a medium bowl. Heat the skillet over medium heat. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring them occasionally, just until they turn opaque, about 3 minutes. Do not overcook. Spread the shrimp on a plate and put them in the freezer to quickly cool them, about 15 minutes.
3 Coarsely chop the bacon and shrimp and transfer them to a bowl. Mix in the cheese, scallions, jalape?os, mayonnaise, cilantro, lemon juice, and sesame seeds, if using. (The filling can be covered and refrigerated for up to 12 hours.)
4 Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 200°F (90°C).
5 Heat the skillet over medium heat. For each quesadilla, put a tortilla in the skillet and heat until the underside is hot, about 30 seconds. Flip the tortilla over. Spoon about ? cup (75 g) of the filling on the bottom half of the tortilla and fold it in half to cover the filling. Continue cooking, turning once, until the tortilla is lightly browned on both sides, about 1 minute. Transfer it to a baking sheet and keep it warm in the oven while cooking the remaining quesadillas.
6 To serve, cut each quesadilla into four wedges. Serve them immediately.
VENEZUELAN
EGG ROLLS
WITH ROCOTO SWEET & SOUR SAUCE
Teque?os con salsa de ají rocoto agridulce
To a Venezuelan, a teque?o is a chunk of cheese wrapped in dough and fried on a stick. The term can also mean just about anything that is deep-fried and crispy. My teque?os, filled with shrimp, pork, and vegetables, are clearly influenced by Asian cooking.
SERVES 6; MAKES 12 EGG ROLLS
FOR THE ROCOTO SWEET & SOUR SAUCE:
? cup (80 g) finely diced red bell pepper
? cup (120 ml) canned pineapple juice
? cup (120 ml) rice vinegar
? cup (100 g) sugar
? cup (60 ml) ketchup
2 tablespoons ají rocoto paste or Sriracha
1 tablespoon cornstarch
FOR THE FILLING:
1 tablespoon canola oil
? cup (40 g) finely diced carrot
? cup (40 g) finely diced red bell pepper
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
1 scallion (white and green parts), minced
6 ounces (170 g) sweet Italian pork sausage, casings removed
6 ounces (170 g) large (31 to 40 count) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and finely chopped
? teaspoon kosher salt
? teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon cornstarch
Twelve 6-inch (15-cm) egg roll wrappers
Canola oil, for deep-frying
1 Make the sauce: Bring the bell pepper, juice, vinegar, sugar, ketchup, and rocoto paste to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring often to dissolve the sugar. Sprinkle the cornstarch over 4 teaspoons water in a small bowl, whisk to dissolve, then whisk the mixture into the sauce. Return it to a full boil to thicken the sauce. Remove it from the heat and let it cool. (The sauce can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 day. Bring it to room temperature before serving.)
2 Make the filling: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the carrot and bell pepper and cover. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the carrot is crisp-tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the ginger and cook until it is fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl and stir in the scallion. Let it cool completely. Stir in the sausage and shrimp. Season with the salt and pepper.
3 Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. In a cup, whisk the cornstarch with 1 tablespoon water. For each teque?o, place an egg roll wrapper on a work surface with a corner facing you. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of the filling in a log about 2? inches (6 cm) above the bottom wrapper corner. Fold up the bottom of the wrapper to completely cover the filling and tuck the wrapper snugly against the filling. Fold over the left and right sides of the wrapper. Tightly roll up the wrapper into a tight cylinder without any open gaps. Paste the exposed corner closed with a dab of the cornstarch mixture. Place the roll, seam-side down, on the parchment. Arrange the teque?os well apart so they don't touch. Loosely cover them with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you're ready to cook, up to 2 hours.
4 To serve, preheat the oven to 200°F (90°C). Place a wire cooling rack over a rimmed baking sheet near the stove.
5 Pour in enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a large saucepan and heat it over high heat until the oil reaches 325°F (165°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. In batches without crowding, deep-fry the teque?os, turning them occasionally, until they are golden brown, about 4 minutes. It is important to cook the teque?os at a moderate rate so the filling cooks through. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the teque?os to the wire rack and keep them warm in the oven while frying the rest.
6 Pour the sauce into individual bowls for dipping. Serve the teque?os and sauce immediately.
CRISPY CHICKEN
WINGS
WITH ORANGE ADOBO SAUCE
Alitas de pollo crocantes con adobo de naranja
Think of these as Buffalo wings Latin-style, with fried chicken in a spicy sauce that will have you licking your fingers with abandon. The terrific sauce, based on the citrus and chile flavors of Yucatan, can be made almost entirely ahead, and quickly finished with some butter right before serving. Look for fresh (not frozen) wingettes or prep whole wings yourself as I describe below (the frozen ones retain too much moisture to brown properly). I've lightened the classic frying cooking method by roasting the wings at a high temperature. You still get crispy wings with falling-off-the-bone meat.
SERVES 6
FOR THE ORANGE ADOBO SAUCE:
2 cups (480 ml) fresh orange juice
1 cup (240 ml) distilled white vinegar
? cup (165 ml) honey
3 guajillo chilies, seeded and torn into large pieces, or 3 tablespoons pure ground ancho chile
4 canned chipotle chilies in adobo, with their clinging sauce
2 tablespoons Achiote (this page) or store-bought condimento de achiote
3 garlic cloves, crushed under a knife and peeled
? cup (1 stick; 115 g) cold unsalted butter, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
FOR THE WINGS:
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
? teaspoon granulated onion or onion powder
? teaspoon granulated garlic or garlic powder
4? pounds (2.2 kg) fresh chicken wingettes, or 5 pounds (2.3 kg) chicken wings (see Note)
1 Make the sauce: Bring the juice, vinegar, honey, guajillos, chipotles, achiote, and garlic to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring often to dissolve the honey. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer briskly, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is reduced by half, about 30 minutes. Remove it from the heat and let it cool. Purée the mixture in a blender. You should have 2 cups (480 ml). The sauce base can be stored at room temperature for up to 4 hours.
2 Make the wings: Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Whisk together the salt, pepper, paprika, onion powder, and garlic powder in a small bowl. Put the wings in a large bowl and toss them with the spice mixture. Arrange the wings in a single layer on the baking sheet.
3 Bake until the wings are nicely browned and show no sign of pink when pierced at the bone with the tip of a small knife, about 40 minutes.
4 Just before the wings are done, finish the sauce. Return the sauce base in the saucepan to a boil over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce the heat to very low. One piece at a time, whisk in the butter, letting the first piece melt before adding another. Season it to taste with salt.
5 Transfer the wings to a large bowl. Add about half of the sauce and toss well. Transfer the wings to a platter. Serve them hot, with the additional sauce alongside for dipping; provide bowls for the bones and plenty of napkins.
NOTE To prepare whole wings: Using a large heavy knife or cleaver, chop off the wing tips at the joint. (Reserve the wing tips to make chicken stock, if desired.) Cut the remaining wing in half at the "elbow" joint.
YUCA
FRIES
WITH ROASTED GARLIC MOJO
Yuca frita con mojo de ajo
These fries with mojo (Caribbean garlic sauce) are a good way to get to know yuca, the flavorful tuber that is the source of tapioca. Note the two-step cooking process, with an initial boiling before the final frying. Roasted garlic makes a mellow mojo without the heat of raw cloves.
SERVES 6 TO 8
FOR THE ROASTED-GARLIC MOJO:
2 large, plump heads of garlic
Olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
? cup (165 ml) fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
2? pounds (1.2 kg) long, narrow yuca (see Note)
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
1 Make the mojo: Preheat the oven to 275°F (135°C). Cut each garlic head in half crosswise. Drizzle the cut surfaces with oil and sprinkle them with a pinch each of salt and pepper. Put the halves back together to return the garlic to its original shape and wrap each in aluminum foil. Bake until the garlic flesh is tender and beige, about 1? hours. Let the garlic cool completely. Squeeze the cloves out of the hulls into a bowl and mash them coarsely with a fork. You should have about ? cup (120 g).
2 Transfer the roasted garlic to a blender. Add the lemon juice and purée. Transfer the purée to a bowl and stir in the parsley. Generously season it with salt and pepper, cover, and refrigerate to blend the flavors, at least 1 hour. (The mojo can be refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
3 Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Trim the ends from the yuca and cut it into 5-inch (12.5-cm) lengths. One at a time, stand a yuca length on end. Using a large sharp knife, cut off the thick waxed bark where it meets the flesh. Cut the yuca lengthwise into sticks about 5 inches (12.5 cm) long and ? inch (2 cm) square. You should have about 30 yuca sticks.
4 Add the yuca to the water and boil it over medium heat until barely tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain the yuca and rinse it under cold running water to stop the cooking. Spread the sticks on clean kitchen towels to drain and cool completely. Discard any tough thin cords running lengthwise in the yuca sticks. (The yuca can be stored at room temperature for up to 4 hours.)
5 Preheat the oven to 200°F (90°C). Place a wire cooling rack over a rimmed baking sheet.
6 Pour in enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a large saucepan and heat it over high heat until the oil reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. In batches without crowding, deep-fry the yuca sticks, turning them as needed, until they are golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer them to the cooling rack and keep them warm in the oven while frying the remaining yuca.
7 Divide the mojo among six to eight ramekins. For each serving, divide the fries among six to eight plates and add a ramekin to each. Serve hot.
NOTE Yuca comes in a wide range of sizes. The elongated, narrow tubers are best for this recipe because they are more tender and easier to peel.
HAM
CROQUETTES
WITH CHINESE MUSTARD DIP
Croquetas de jamón con salsa de mostaza China
Ham croquettes are among the most beloved of all tapas. My version has unexpected Asian flavors that you are not likely to find in a Spanish restaurant. Bite into one of these walnut-size balls, and you'll first encounter a crunchy panko coating, which then gives way to a creamy, warm filling. Start these early in the day (or even the day before) so the filling is firm enough for shaping.
SERVES 6 TO 8; MAKES 24 CROQUETTES
FOR THE CHINESE MUSTARD DIP:
? cup (25 g) dry mustard powder
? cup (60 ml) soy sauce
? cup (60 ml) rice vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
4 teaspoons sugar
? cup (120 ml) canola oil
2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted
1 scallion (green part only), very thinly sliced
FOR THE FILLING:
4 tablespoons (? stick; 55 g) unsalted butter
? cup (65 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream, heated to steaming
2 ounces (55 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
? cup (85 g) finely chopped white onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
12 ounces (340 g) smoked ham, finely minced in a food processor
1 cup (115 g) shredded Emmenthaler cheese
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons Sriracha
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE COATING:
1 cup (130 g) all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
1? cups (90 g) panko
Canola oil, for deep-frying
1 Make the mustard dip: Whisk the mustard and ? cup (60 ml) cold water together in a small bowl. Pour them into a blender and add the soy sauce, vinegar, honey, and sugar. With the blender running, gradually add the oil through the hole in the lid to make a thick dip. Return it to the bowl and stir in the sesame seeds and scallion. Cover and let the dip stand for at least 1 hour before serving. (The dip can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Return it to room temperature before serving.)
2 Make the filling: Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour to make a lumpy paste. (It will not look like the typical roux.) Gradually whisk in the cream and bring it to a boil over medium heat, whisking often to dissolve the lumps, to make a very thick sauce. Pour the sauce into a medium bowl. Let the sauce cool, whisking it occasionally, until warm, about 15 minutes. Whisk in the cream cheese until smooth. Let the sauce cool, whisking often, until it cools to room temperature, about 1 hour. Do not worry if the butter separates from the sauce.
3 Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent and tender, about 3 minutes. Whisk it into the cooled sauce. Add the ham, cheese, lime juice, cilantro, and Sriracha and mix well. Season the filling to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate it until congealed and easier to shape, 1 to 2 hours.
4 Line a baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Using a generous tablespoon for each croquette, shape the ham mixture into 24 balls and place them on the paper. Cover them with plastic wrap and freeze until completely frozen, at least 2 hours or up to 1 day.
5 Make the coating: Line another baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. Spread the flour in a shallow bowl. Beat the eggs well in a second shallow bowl. Spread the panko in a third shallow bowl. One at a time, roll a frozen croquette in the flour, shaking off the excess flour, then in the eggs, and finally in the panko, shaking off the excess panko. Place them on the paper.
6 Preheat the oven to 200°F (90°C). Place a wire cooling rack over a large rimmed baking sheet. Pour in enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a large saucepan and heat it over high heat until the oil reaches 325°F (165°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. In batches without crowding, deep-fry the croquettes, turning them occasionally, until they are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Adjust the heat so the croquettes bubble in the oil but the panko doesn't brown too quickly, as the filling must heat through. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the croquettes to the rack and keep them warm in the oven while frying the rest.
7 Pour the mustard dip into a bowl. Transfer the croquettes to a platter and serve them hot, with the dip alongside.
POTATOES
BRAVAS
WITH SMOKED ROMESCO & CHORIZO
Patatas bravas con romesco ahumado y chorizo
This is how I make patatas bravas, crispy potatoes that have been made "angry" (brava) with the addition of a spicy sauce. The exact kind of sauce varies from cook to cook-some use a?oli, others a paprika-spiced tomato sauce. I lean toward this red pepper romesco, one of the classic sauces of Spain, which I make smoky with chipotle and smoked paprika. The potatoes are traditionally deep-fried, but they are just as tasty when roasted, as I do here. Serve them as tapas, or try them as a side dish (with or without the chorizo) to a simple main course, such as roast pork or chicken.
SERVES 6
FOR THE SMOKY CHIPOTLE ROMESCO:
3 plum tomatoes
? small yellow onion, cut into ?-inch (6-mm) rings
Olive oil
1 garlic clove, crushed and peeled
5 drained piquillo peppers (see Notes), or 1 roasted red pepper, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons slivered almonds, toasted (see Notes)
2 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 canned chipotle chile in adobo, with clinging sauce
1 teaspoon smoked paprika (pimentón)
Kosher salt
2 pounds (910 g) fingerling or small red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed but unpeeled, halved lengthwise
3 tablespoons olive oil
5 ounces (140 g) smoked Spanish-style chorizo, cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
3 scallions (white and green parts), thinly sliced
1 Make the romesco: Position a broiler rack about 6 inches (15 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high.
2 Toss the tomatoes and onion rings with oil and spread them on the broiler rack. Broil, turning occasionally, until the onion rings are lightly charred, about 4 minutes. Remove the onion rings. Continue broiling the tomatoes until the skins are split and charred, about 4 minutes more. Transfer them to a bowl. Let the tomatoes cool. Remove the skins and seeds.
3 Transfer the tomatoes, onion, and garlic to a food processor. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil, the peppers, almonds, bread crumbs, vinegar, chipotle, and paprika. Process the romesco until it is smooth. Season to taste with salt. Transfer the romesco to a bowl, cover, and let it stand for at least 1 hour to blend the flavors. (The romesco can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Let it stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.)
4 Position a rack in the top third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425° (220°C). Spread the potatoes on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle them with 2 tablespoons of the oil and toss to coat. Arrange the potatoes with the cut side down. Bake, turning the potatoes after 25 minutes, until they are tender and golden brown, about 15 minutes longer.
5 Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the chorizo and cook, stirring it occasionally, until it is browned, about 6 minutes. Remove it from the heat and cover with the lid to keep it warm.
6 To serve, add the romesco and chorizo to the potatoes on the baking sheet and toss to combine them. Divide the potato mixture among six small bowls, sprinkle with scallions, and serve hot.
NOTES Piquillo peppers, one of the glories of Spanish cuisine, are small red peppers roasted and packed in olive oil, vinegar, and brine, and are sold at specialty food stores and many supermarkets. Their name means "little beak," and you can see how they got it from their long, pointed shape. They are richly flavored to begin with, and roasting heightens their taste, which is a little hotter and more complex than your average red bell pepper.
To toast almonds and other nuts, heat an empty small skillet over medium heat. Add the almonds and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are toasted and golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately transfer them to a plate and let them cool completely.
CLASSIC
GUACAMOLE
Guacamole clásico
Put out a bowl of great guacamole, and the party can begin! What makes great "guac"? Start by choosing the right avocados, which are the pebbly skinned varieties such as Hass and Fuerte, originally grown as a domestic crop in California, and now augmented year-round with imports from Mexico, Peru, and Chile. This is the classic recipe, which should always be chunky and never made in a blender or food processor. Avocados by themselves are bland, so don't be shy with the salt.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2 ripe Hass avocados, coarsely chopped
1 plum tomato, seeded and cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
? cup (40 g) finely chopped white or yellow onion
? jalape?o, or 1 serrano chile, seeded and minced
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Kosher salt
Tostaditas (see this page) or store-bought tortilla chips, for serving
Mash the avocados, tomato, onion, chile, and lime juice together in a medium bowl with a large serving fork or a potato masher. Be sure to keep the guacamole chunky. Season it generously to taste with salt. Serve it immediately, with the chips. (The guacamole can be covered with a piece of plastic wrap pressed directly on its surface and refrigerated for up to 8 hours.)
BACON
GUACAMOLE
Guacamole con tocino
There are many cooks, professional and otherwise, who would put bacon on anything edible. (I have seen bacon ice cream on menus.) I use bacon in many of my dishes, too, because with just a few minutes' cooking time, you can add a crispy, chewy, salty, slightly sweet flavor that is addictive. Here I add bacon to guacamole, and they were clearly made for each other. Think outside of the tortilla chips box (or bag) and try pork rinds with this guacamole.
SERVES 4 TO 6
4 slices bacon
1 recipe Classic Guacamole (this page)
? cup (60 g) crumbled fresh cotija cheese or ricotta salata
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped Pickled Jalape?os (this page) or store-bought jalape?os en escabeche or nacho slices
Fried pork rinds or store-bought tortilla chips, for serving
1 Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat, turning occasionally, until it is crisp and browned, about 8 minutes. Transfer it to paper towels to drain. Coarsely chop the bacon.
2 Put the guacamole in a serving bowl. Top it with the bacon, cheese, and jalape?os. Serve it immediately, with the pork rinds for dipping.
AHI TUNA
GUACAMOLE
Guacamole con atún
Here is an upscale version of layered dip, a lowbrow Tex-Mex favorite that a lot of people love in spite of its humble ingredients. I start with chunky guacamole, add diced fresh tuna marinated in ponzu, spread it with spicy mayonnaise, and finish it off with crisp jícama. Served on crunchy won ton chips, it shows how well Latin and Asian cuisines can complement each other… and how you can take a good thing and make it better. You can also assemble the ingredients on individual chips and pass them as hors d'ouevres.
SERVES 6
FOR THE WON TON CHIPS:
Canola oil, for deep-frying
12 won ton wrappers, cut into halves
FOR THE JíCAMA TOPPING:
? cup (85 g) peeled and thinly julienned jícama (use a mandoline or V-slicer)
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt
8 ounces sushi-grade ahi steaks, cut into ?-inch (6-mm) dice
1 tablespoon Ponzu, homemade (this page) or store-bought
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
1? teaspoons adobo from canned chipotle chilies in adobo
1 recipe Classic Guacamole (this page)
? teaspoon sesame seeds, toasted
1 Make the won ton chips: Pour in enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a large saucepan and heat it over high heat until the oil reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. In small batches, deep-fry the won ton wrapper pieces, turning them after 5 seconds, until they are golden brown, about 15 seconds total. (They brown very quickly, so you may want to do a test strip to judge the timing for your particular brand.) Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the chips to the paper towels to drain. The won ton chips can be stored uncovered at room temperature for up to 8 hours.
2 Make the jícama topping: Toss together the jícama, lime juice, and cilantro in a small bowl. Season them to taste with salt.
3 Toss together the tuna and ponzu in a small bowl. Mix the mayonnaise and adobo together in another small bowl.
4 Spread the guacamole in a wide layer about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick on a serving platter. Top it with the tuna. Spread it with the a?oli. Scatter the jícama over the a?oli and sprinkle the top with the sesame seeds. Serve the dip immediately, with the won ton chips.
PONZU
MAKES ABOUT ? CUP (210 ML)
While ponzu is becoming increasingly available at supermarkets, here is a recipe for a homemade version.
? cup (120 ml) mirin
2 tablespoons sake
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
One 3-inch (7.5-cm) square kombu (dried seaweed for cooking), rinsed under cold water
? teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
? cup (120 ml) soy sauce
2 tablespoons bottled yuzu or fresh lime juice
Bring the mirin, sake, vinegar, kombu, and pepper flakes to a simmer in a small nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the soy sauce and yuzu juice. Strain the ponzu into a small bowl, discarding the kombu. Let it cool. Cover and refrigerate the sauce for up to 2 weeks.
LATIN COCKTAIL PARTY
Margaritas
(THIS PAGE)
Ahi Tuna Guacamole
(THIS PAGE)
Applewood-Smoked Swordfish Dip
(THIS PAGE)
Brisket Nachos with Chipotle Cheese Sauce
(THIS PAGE)
Venezuelan Egg Rolls with Rocoto Sweet & Sour Sauce
(THIS PAGE)
Glazed Togarashi Pecans
(THIS PAGE)
Chocolate-Dipped Peanut Cookies
(THIS PAGE)
QUESO
FUNDIDO
WITH WILD MUSHROOMS
Queso fundido con setas silvestres
When people share food from the same vessel, there is no choice but for everyone to get close-both physically and in their frame of mind. This version of queso fundido is upgraded from the standard model with sautéed mushrooms and a trio of cheeses.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 garlic cloves, smashed under a knife and peeled
Three 3-inch (7.5-cm) sprigs fresh thyme
Three 3-inch (7.5-cm) sprigs fresh oregano
10 ounces (280 g) cremini, stemmed shiitake, or other full-flavored mushrooms, coarsely chopped
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
? cup (95 g) shredded Gouda cheese
? cup (95 g) shredded Chihuahua or mild cheddar cheese
? cup (95 g) shredded Oaxaca, string, or mozzarella cheese
Flour tortillas, heated according to package directions, for serving
1 Heat the oil, garlic, thyme, and oregano together in a medium ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat until the garlic begins to brown, about 2? minutes. Add the mushrooms and season to taste with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender but moist, about 6 minutes. (The mushrooms can be transferred to a bowl and cooled, covered, and refrigerated for 1 day. Reheat them in a skillet over medium heat.)
2 Position a broiler rack about 6 inches (15 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high.
3 Mix the Gouda, Chihuahua, and Oaxaca cheeses together. Stir them into the mushrooms in the skillet. When the cheese begins to melt, transfer the skillet to the broiler. Broil until the cheese is fully melted and beginning to brown in spots, about 3 minutes. Watch the queso fundido carefully during browning because it can burn quickly.
4 Immediately bring the skillet to the table and place it on a trivet. Using a serving spoon, scoop the queso fundido directly from the pan and spread it on the tortillas. (Alert your guests not to touch the hot skillet.)
VARIATION Chorizo Queso Fundido: Omit the mushrooms. Cook 4 ounces (115 g) soft Mexican-style chorizo, casings removed, in the skillet over medium heat, stirring often and breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon, until the chorizo is lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Drain off the excess fat from the skillet. Continue with the recipe as directed. This is especially good served with Tomatillo-Jalape?o Green Salsa (this page).
COOKED
TOMATO
SALSA
WITH TORTILLA CHIPS
Salsa de molcajete con tostaditas
Tomato salsa and tortilla chips can be memorable when the salsa is homemade from ripe tomatoes and the chips are freshly fried. Broiling the tomatoes adds a bit of smoky flavor to the salsa, and cooking the vegetables gives the salsa a clinging texture that is perfect for dipping. In Mexico, many cooks crush the vegetables in a molcajete, the classic mortar and pestle made from volcanic rock, but a food processor works well and is much easier to clean!
MAKES 2 CUPS (480 ML) SALSA; SERVES 6 TO 8
FOR THE MOLCAJETE SALSA:
1 pound (455 g) ripe plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons canola oil
? small yellow onion, coarsely chopped
1 serrano chile, or ? jalape?o, seeded and minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon adobo from canned chipotle chilies in adobo
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
Kosher salt
FOR THE TOSTADITAS:
Canola oil, for deep-frying
8 corn tortillas, cut into 6 wedges each
1 Make the salsa: Position a broiler rack about 6 inches (15 cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on high. Place the tomatoes on a broiler pan and broil, turning them occasionally, until the skins are blackened and blistered, about 8 minutes. Let them cool until they are easy to handle. Peel off and discard the blackened tomato skins and poke out the seeds with your finger.
2 Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, chile, and garlic and cook, stirring often, until the onion is tender but not browned, about 3 minutes. Let it cool.
3 Pulse the tomatoes, onion mixture, and adobo in a food processor until they are smooth but not puréed. Add the cilantro and pulse just to combine. Season to taste with salt. Transfer the salsa to a covered container. (It can be refrigerated for up to 3 days. Remove it from the refrigerator 1 hour before serving.)
4 Make the tostaditas: Pour in enough oil to come halfway up the sides of a large deep skillet and heat it over high heat until the oil is shimmering and reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with a double thickness of paper towels.
5 In batches, add the tortilla wedges and deep-fry them until golden brown, about 1 minute. Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the tortilla chips to the paper towels. (The chips can be stored in a paper bag for up to 12 hours.)
6 Transfer the salsa to a serving bowl and serve it with the chips.
APPLEWOOD-SMOKED
SWORDFISH
DIP
Dip de pez espada ahumado
Make this chunky dip once for a party, and expect to make it again for your next bash. It's that good. And with an outdoor grill, it is also very easy to smoke the swordfish. Use applewood chips, as the smoke gives off a sweet, not-too-strong aroma that works well for delicate foods like fish. The smoking can also be done in the kitchen.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS (660 G); SERVES 8
One 1-pound (455-g) swordfish steak, cut about 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick
Olive oil, for brushing
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 large handful applewood chips, soaked in cold water for at least 1 hour
1 medium tomato, seeded and cut into ?-inch (12-mm) dice
? cup (105 g) finely chopped white onion
? cup (120 ml) mayonnaise
? cup (75 g) drained and coarsely chopped Pickled Jalape?os (this page) or store-bought jalape?os en escabeche or nacho slices, or more to taste
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
Tortilla chips, for serving
1 Prepare an outdoor grill for indirect grilling over low heat. For a charcoal grill, let the coals burn until they are covered with pale gray ash and you can hold your hand about 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the grill grate for 3 to 4 seconds. Push the coals to one side of the grill, leaving the other side empty. For a gas grill, preheat the grill on high. Turn one burner off, then adjust the heat to 325°F (165°C). Place a double-thick piece of aluminum foil directly on the heat source (under the grate) to hold the drained chips. (Or use a smoker box according to the manufacturer's directions.)
2 Tear off a 12-inch (30.5-cm) square of foil and pierce an area the shape of the swordfish steak with a meat fork. Brush the swordfish with the oil, season it with ? teaspoon salt and ? teaspoon pepper, and place it on the pierced area of the foil.
3 Drain the wood chips and scatter them on the coals (or place them on the foil or smoker box on the gas grill). Close the grill and allow the chips to build up a head of smoke. Place the swordfish on its foil on the empty (or turned-off) area of the grill. Close the grill and cook until the swordfish looks barely opaque when flaked with the tip of a knife, 30 to 40 minutes. Let the swordfish cool completely.
4 Remove the swordfish skin. Flake the flesh and transfer it to a medium bowl. Stir in the tomato, onion, mayonnaise, jalape?os, lime juice, and cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate the mixture until chilled, at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
5 Serve it chilled, with the tortillas for dipping.
NOTE To smoke the swordfish indoors, line a Dutch oven with aluminum foil, pressing the foil flat against the bottom of the Dutch oven. Add the drained chips. Place an oiled steamer basket over the chips. Heat the Dutch oven over high heat until the chips begin to smoke, about 5 minutes. Add the swordfish to the basket. Cover the Dutch oven with a large sheet of aluminum foil and the lid to make a tight seal. Lower the heat to medium so the chips are smoking steadily. Cook until the swordfish is opaque when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 30 minutes.
GLAZED
TOGARASHI
PECANS
Nueces glaseadas con chile Japonés
There is no way that you can eat just one of these crunchy and spicy nuts. The seven ingredients in shichimi togarashi have been magically combined to arouse your appetite, and they certainly work their sorcery here. Although I don't have salt in this recipe, you can add a generous sprinkle if you wish. One important tip: Do not drain the warm glazed nuts on paper towels, or they will stick. Be sure to wait until they are cooled, and then spread them on paper towels to remove any excess oil. The cocktail in the photo is the Pisco Sour (this page).
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (450 G)
2? cups (500 g) granulated sugar
4 cups (450 g) pecan halves
? cup (90 g) confectioners' sugar
Canola oil, for deep-frying
One .63-ounce (18-g) jar shichimi togarashi
1 Bring the sugar and 2? cups (600 ml) water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat, stirring often to be sure that the sugar dissolves. Boil for 1 minute. Add the pecans and return them to a boil. Cook until the pecans soften, about 2 minutes. Drain them well in a colander.
2 Toss the pecans in the colander, sprinkling them with the confectioners' sugar until they are coated. Spread the pecans on a large baking sheet lined with parchment paper and let them dry for at least 2 hours.
3 Pour in enough oil to come one-third up the sides of a large saucepan and heat it over high heat until the oil reaches 350°F (175°C) on a deep-frying thermometer. Line another large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
4 Deep-fry half of the pecans until they turn a shade darker, about 1 minute. (You may want to do a test run with couple of pecans to get the timing right. They should develop a thin glaze, and color lightly, but not burn.) Using a wire spider or slotted spoon, transfer the nuts, letting as much oil as possible drain back into the saucepan, to the parchment paper to drain. Let the oil return to 350°F (175°C) and repeat with the remaining pecans. Let the pecans drain for about 2 minutes; they should be warm and slightly sticky.
5 Transfer the pecans to the unlined baking sheet. Stir the pecans and sprinkle them with the togarashi to coat. Let them cool completely. Store them in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.
