The Steamer - Cape Finisterre - The Storm - Arrival at Cadiz -The New Testament - Seville - Italica - The Amphitheatre -The Prisoners - The Encounter - Baron Taylor - The Street and Desert.
At the commencement of November, I again found myself on the salt water, on my way to Spain.I had returned to England shortly after the events which have been narrated in the last chapter, for the purpose of consulting with my friends, and for planning the opening of a biblical campaign in Spain.It was now determined by us to print the New Testament, with as little delay as possible, at Madrid; and I was to be entrusted with the somewhat arduous task of its distribution.My stay in England was very short, for time was precious, and I was eager to return to the field of action.
I embarked in the Thames, on board the M- steamer.We had a most unpleasant passage to Falmouth; the ship was crowded with passengers, most of them poor consumptive individuals, and other invalids fleeing from the cold blasts of England's winter to the sunny shores of Portugal and Madeira.In a more uncomfortable vessel, especially steam ship, it has never been my fate to make a voyage.The berths were small and insupportably close, and of these wretched holes mine was amongst the worst, the rest having been bespoken before Iarrived on board; so that to avoid the suffocation which seemed to threaten me should I enter it, I lay upon the floor of one of the cabins throughout the voyage.We remained at Falmouth twenty-four hours, taking in coal, and repairing the engine, which had sustained considerable damage.
On Monday, the seventh, we again started, and made for the Bay of Biscay.The sea was high and the wind strong and contrary; nevertheless, on the morning of the fourth day, we were in sight of the rocky coast to the north of Cape Finisterre.I must here observe, that this was the first voyage that the captain who commanded the vessel had ever made on board of her, and that he knew little or nothing of the coast towards which we were bearing.He was a person picked up in a hurry, the former captain having resigned his command on the ground that the ship was not seaworthy, and that the engines were frequently unserviceable.I was not acquainted with these circumstances at the time, or perhaps I should have felt more alarmed than I did, when I saw the vessel approaching nearer and nearer the shore, till at last we were only a few hundred yards distant.As it was, however, I felt very much surprised; for having passed it twice before, both times in steam vessels, and having seen with what care the captains endeavoured to maintain a wide offing, I could not conceive the reason of our being now so near this dangerous region.The wind was blowing hard towards the shore, if that can be called a shore which consists of steep abrupt precipices, on which the surf was breaking with the noise of thunder, tossing up clouds of spray and foam to the height of a cathedral.We coasted slowly along, rounding several tall forelands, some of them piled up by the hand of nature in the most fantastic shapes.
About nightfall Cape Finisterre was not far ahead, - a bluff, brown, granite mountain, whose frowning head may be seen far away by those who traverse the ocean.The stream which poured round its breast was terrific, and though our engines plied with all their force, we made little or no way.
By about eight o'clock at night the wind had increased to a hurricane, the thunder rolled frightfully, and the only light which we had to guide us on our way was the red forked lightning, which burst at times from the bosom of the big black clouds which lowered over our heads.We were exerting ourselves to the utmost to weather the cape, which we could descry by the lightning on our lee, its brow being frequently brilliantly lighted up by the flashes which quivered around it, when suddenly, with a great crash, the engine broke, and the paddles, on which depended our lives, ceased to play.
I will not attempt to depict the scene of horror and confusion which ensued; it may be imagined, but never described.The captain, to give him his due, displayed the utmost coolness and intrepidity; he and the whole crew made the greatest exertions to repair the engine, and when they found their labour in vain, endeavoured, by hoisting the sails, and by practising all possible manoeuvres, to preserve the ship from impending destruction; but all was of no avail, we were hard on a lee shore, to which the howling tempest was impelling us.About this time I was standing near the helm, and I asked the steersman if there was any hope of saving the vessel, or our lives.He replied, "Sir, it is a bad affair, no boat could live for a minute in this sea, and in less than an hour the ship will have her broadside on Finisterre, where the strongest man-of-war ever built must go to shivers instantly - none of us will see the morning." The captain, likewise, informed the other passengers in the cabin to the same effect, telling them to prepare themselves; and having done so, he ordered the door to be fastened, and none to be permitted to come on deck.I, however, kept my station, though almost drowned with water, immense waves continually breaking over our windward side and flooding the ship.The water casks broke from their lashings, and one of them struck me down, and crushed the foot of the unfortunate man at the helm, whose place was instantly taken by the captain.We were now close to the rocks, when a horrid convulsion of the elements took place.The lightning enveloped us as with a mantle, the thunders were louder than the roar of a million cannon, the dregs of the ocean seemed to be cast up, and in the midst of all this turmoil, the wind, without the slightest intimation, VEERED RIGHT ABOUT, and pushed us from the horrible coast faster than it had previously driven us towards it.
