THE LOWER AMAZONS--OBYDOS TO MANAOS, OR THE BARRA OF THE RIONEGRO
Departure from Obydos--River Banks and By-channels--Cacao Planters--Daily Life on Board Our Vessel--Great Storm--Sand-Island and Its Birds--Hill of Parentins--Negro Trader and Mauhes Indians--Villa Nova: Its Inhabitants, Forest, and Animal Productions--Cararaucu--A rustic Festival--Lake of Cararaucu--Motuca--Flies--Serpa--Christmas Holidays--River Madeira--AMameluco Farmer--Mura Indians--Rio Negro--Description of Barra--Descent to Para--Yellow Fever A Trader of Obydos, named Penna, was proceeding about in a cuberta laden with merchandise to the Rio Negro, intending to stop frequently on the road, so I bargained with him for a passage.He gave up a part of the toldo, or fore-cabin as it may be called, and here I slung my hammock and arranged my boxes so as to be able to work as we went along.The stoppages I thought would be an advantage, as I could collect in the woods whilst he traded, and thus acquire a knowledge of the productions of many places on the river which on a direct voyage would be impossible to do.I provided a stock of groceries for two months'
consumption; and, after the usual amount of unnecessary fuss and delay on the part of the owner, we started on the 19th of November.Penna took his family with him-- this comprised a smart, lively mameluco woman, named Catarina, whom we called Senora Katita, and two children.The crew consisted of three men:
one a sturdy Indian, another a Cafuzo, godson of Penna, and the third, our best hand, a steady, good-natured mulatto, named Joaquim.My boy Luco was to assist in rowing and so forth.Penna was a timid middle-aged man, a white with a slight cross of Indian; when he was surly and obstinate, he used to ask me to excuse him on account of the Tapuyo blood in his veins.He tried to make me as comfortable as the circumstances admitted, and provided a large stock of eatables and drinkables; so that altogether the voyage promised to be a pleasant one.
On leaving the port of Obydos, we crossed over to the right bank and sailed with a light wind all day, passing numerous houses, each surrounded by its grove of cacao trees.On the 20th we made slow progress.After passing the high land at the mouth of the Trombetas, the banks were low, clayey, or earthy on both sides.
The breadth of the river varies hereabout from two and a half to three miles, but neither coast is the true terra firma.On the northern side a by-channel runs for a long distance inland, communicating with the extensive lake of Faro; on the south, three channels lead to the similar fresh-water sea of Villa Franca; these are in part arms of the river, so that the land they surround consists, properly speaking, of islands.When this description of land is not formed wholly of river deposit, as sometimes happens, or is raised above the level of the highest floods, it is called Ygapo alto, and is distinguished by the natives from the true islands of mid-river, as well as from the terra firma.We landed at one of the cacao plantations.The house was substantially built; the walls formed of strong upright posts, lathed across, plastered with mud and whitewashed, and the roof tiled.The family were mamelucos, and seemed to be an average sample of the poorer class of cacao growers.All were loosely dressed and bare-footed.A broad verandah extended along one side of the house, the floor of which was simply the well-trodden earth; and here hammocks were slung between the bare upright supports, a large rush mat being spread on the ground, upon which the stout matron-like mistress, with a tame parrot perched upon her shoulder, sat sewing with two pretty little mulatto girls.The master, coolly clad in shirt and drawers, the former loose about the neck, lay in his hammock smoking a long gaudily-painted wooden pipe.The household utensils, earthenware jars, water-pots and saucepans lay at one end, near which was a wood fire, with the ever-ready coffee-pot simmering on the top of a clay tripod.A large shed stood a short distance off, embowered in a grove of banana, papaw, and mango trees; and under it were the ovens, troughs, sieves, and all other apparatus for the preparation of mandioca.The cleared space around the house was only a few yards in extent; beyond it lay the cacao plantations, which stretched on each side parallel to the banks of the river.
There was a path through the forest which led to the mandioca fields, and several miles beyond to other houses on the banks of an interior channel.We were kindly received, as is always the case when a stranger visits these out-of-the-way habitations--the people being invariably civil and hospitable.We had a long chat, took coffee, and upon departing, one of the daughters sent a basket full of oranges for our use down to the canoe.
