The cost of a cacao plantation in the Obydos district is after the rate of 240 reis or sixpence per tree, which is much higher than at Cameta, where I believe the yield is not so great.The forest here is cleared before planting, and the trees are grown in rows.The smaller cultivators are all very poor.Labour is scarce; one family generally manages its own small plantation of 10,000 to 15,000 trees, but at the harvest time neighbours assist each other.It appeared to me to be an easy, pleasant life; the work is all done under shade, and occupies only a few weeks in the year.The incorrigible nonchalance and laziness of the people alone prevent them from surrounding themselves with all the luxuries of a tropical country.They might plant orchards of the choicest fruit trees around their houses, grow Indian corn, and rear cattle and hogs, as intelligent settlers from Europe would certainly do, instead of indolently relying solely on the produce of their small plantations, and living on a meagre diet of fish and farinha.In preparing the cacao they have not devised any means of separating the seeds well from the pulp, or drying it in a systematic way; the consequence is that, although naturally of good quality, it molds before reaching the merchants' stores, and does not fetch more than half the price of the same article grown in other parts of tropical America.The Amazons region is the original home of the principal species of chocolate tree, the Theobroma cacao; and it grows in abundance in the forests of the upper river.The cultivated crop appears to be a precarious one;little or no care, however, is bestowed on the trees, and even weeding is done very inefficiently.The plantations are generally old, and have been made on the low ground near the river, which renders them liable to inundation when this rises a few inches more than the average.There is plenty of higher land quite suitable to the tree, but it is uncleared, and the want of labour and enterprise prevents the establishment of new plantations.
We passed the last houses in the Obydos district on the 20th, and the river scenery then resumed its usual wild and solitary character, which the scattered human habitations relieved, although in a small degree.We soon fell into a regular mode of life on board our little ark.Penna would not travel by night;indeed, our small crew, wearied by the day's labour, required rest, and we very rarely had wind in the night.We used to moor the vessel to a tree, giving out plenty of cable, so as to sleep at a distance from the banks and free of mosquitoes, which although swarming in the forest, rarely came many yards out into the river at this season of the year.The strong current at a distance of thirty or forty yards from the coast steadied the cuberta head to stream, and kept us from drifting ashore.We all slept in the open air, as the heat of the cabins was stifling in the early part of the night.Penna, Senhora Katita, and I slung our hammocks in triangle between the mainmast and two stout poles fixed in the raised deck.A sheet was the only covering required, besides our regular clothing, for the decrease of temperature at night on the Amazons is never so great as to be felt otherwise than as a delightful coolness after the sweltering heat of the afternoons.
We used to rise when the first gleam of dawn showed itself above the long, dark line of forest.Our clothes and hammocks were then generally soaked with dew, but this was not felt to be an inconvenience.The Indian Manoel used to revive himself by a plunge in the river, under the bows of the vessel.It is the habit of all Indians, male and female, to bathe early in the morning; they do it sometimes for warmth's sake, the temperature of the water being often considerably higher than that of the air.Penna and I lolled in our hammocks, while Katita prepared the indispensable cup of strong coffee, which she did with wonderful celerity, smoking meanwhile her early morning pipe of tobacco.Liberal owners of river craft allow a cup of coffee sweetened with molasses, or a ration of cashaca, to each man of their crews; Penna gave them coffee.When all were served, the day's work began.There was seldom any wind at this early hour, so if there was still water along the shore, the men rowed, if not, there was no way of progressing but by espia.
