The fermented liquors, produced from the juice of the grape, are most esteemed in Europe.It is, however, at least problematical whether they have, or have not, any great, or indeed any real superiority.Their chemical analysis does not show much grounds for the preference, and we would not, a priori, conceive that the substances, which by the art of the chemist may be made into a compound not to be distinguished from them, would produce a liquid peculiarly beneficial to the constitution, or agreeable to the palate.(120) If we inquire into the tastes of other nations, we find, by the testimony of travellers, that over the greater part of the world, they are rather disrelished.Captain Basil Hall, in his voyage to Loo Choo, says he has found cherry brandy the most generally esteemed liquor among all nations, dad we may see a reason for the preference given to such a beverage.The sensation, with which even diluted alcohol at first affects the organs of taste, is unpleasant.Most people take some plan to subdue or correct its harshness.The mixture of matters themselves pleasant in flavor or taste, as in that sort of cordial, one would suppose the most effectual and agreeable means of doing so.The Chinese have grapes, but make no use of them for the formation of fermented liquors.Our European travellers tax them in consequence with want of taste and ingenuity.They, in turn, are surprised at our folly in manufacturing what seems to them a more harsh, and unpleasant, and is generally a far more expensive beverage than theirs.Which has most reason on his side, the European or the Chinese, is difficult to determine; for, when the passion of vanity joins with the imitative propensity, the two have a singular power in producing obstinately opposing opinions, especially when they have an organ to work on so pliant in the reception of impressions as the palate.The fashionable drink of the Prussians of old was fermented mare's milk; while the nobles drank this, the common people were content with mead.This, at least, can be said in favor of the choice, that the latter liquor must have been easily got in the country of wild honey, and would therefore be vulgar; the former could only be procured by the wealthy, and would therefore indicate rank.
On the whole, as it must be allowed that vanity has a very great influence in determining the preference which is given to one sort of alcoholic liquor over another, so it is very difficult to determine the point where its operation ceases.This, perhaps, can only be done in cases where the degree in which some agreeable flavor or relish is possessed is in question, or where some positively disagreeable flavor or taste, or injurious quality, is communicated in the process of preparation.
It is also to be observed, with regard to these liquors, that, with the exception, perhaps, of the negro, whose physical constitution is so different from that of the white that no conclusion can be drawn from the one to the other, the propensity to their consumption is stronger among people living at a distance from the equator, than among those who inhabit regions' lying near it.Were it necessary to assign reasons for a fact generally observed, we might find them in the grosser feeding of the inhabitants of cold climates, and in their diminished susceptibility to the impressions of the sexual desires.
I have discussed the subject of these liquors at a length which I fear may appear tedious.Some reasons for having done so will show themselves afterwards.There is one that has immediately to appear.
A very important question concerning their consumption arises, which, it seems to me, has been too hastily determined, and that determination rashly acted on, in a manner that has produced very injurious effects.
As far as we have presently to consider the doctrine and practice, they may, in a great measure, be traced to the following passage in the Wealth of Nations.
"Though individuals may sometimes ruin their fortunes by an excessive consumption of fermented liquors, there seems to be no risk that a nation should do so.Though in every country there are many people who spend upon such liquors more than they can afford, there are always many more who spend less.It deserves to be remarked, too, that if we consult experience, the cheapness of wine seems to be a cause, not of drunkenness, but of sobriety.
