If the French have as great an aversion for traveling as the English have a propensity for it,both English and French have perhaps sufficient reasons.Something better than England is everywhere to be found;whereas it is excessively difficult to find the charms of France outside France.Other countries can show admirable scenery,and they frequently offer greater comfort than that of France,which makes but slow progress in that particular.They sometimes display a bewildering magnificence,grandeur,and luxury;they lack neither grace nor noble manners;but the life of the brain,the talent for conversation,the "Attic salt"so familiar at Paris,the prompt apprehension of what one is thinking,but does not say,the spirit of the unspoken,which is half the French language,is nowhere else to be met with.Hence a Frenchman,whose raillery,as it is,finds so little comprehension,would wither in a foreign land like an uprooted tree.
Emigration is counter to the instincts of the French nation.Many Frenchmen,of the kind here in question,have owned to pleasure at seeing the custom-house officers of their native land,which may seem the most daring hyperbole of patriotism.
This preamble is intended to recall to such Frenchmen as have traveled the extreme pleasure they have felt on occasionally finding their native land,like an oasis,in the drawing-room of some diplomate:a pleasure hard to be understood by those who have never left the asphalt of the Boulevard des Italiens,and to whom the Quais of the left bank of the Seine are not really Paris.To find Paris again!Do you know what that means,O Parisians?It is to find--not indeed the cookery of the /Rocher de Cancale/as Borel elaborates it for those who can appreciate it,for that exists only in the Rue Montorgueil--but a meal which reminds you of it!It is to find the wines of France,which out of France are to be regarded as myths,and as rare as the woman of whom I write!It is to find--not the most fashionable pleasantry,for it loses its aroma between Paris and the frontier--but the witty understanding,the critical atmosphere in which the French live,from the poet down to the artisan,from the duchess to the boy in the street.
In 1836,when the Sardinian Court was residing at Genoa,two Parisians,more or less famous,could fancy themselves still in Paris when they found themselves in a palazzo,taken by the French Consul-General,on the hill forming the last fold of the Apennines between the gate of San Tomaso and the well-known lighthouse,which is to be seen in all the keepsake views of Genoa.This palazzo is one of the magnificent villas on which Genoese nobles were wont to spend millions at the time when the aristocratic republic was a power.
If the early night is beautiful anywhere,it surely is at Genoa,after it has rained as it can rain there,in torrents,all the morning;when the clearness of the sea vies with that of the sky;when silence reigns on the quay and in the groves of the villa,and over the marble heads with yawning jaws,from which water mysteriously flows;when the stars are beaming;when the waves of the Mediterranean lap one after another like the avowal of a woman,from whom you drag it word by word.It must be confessed,that the moment when the perfumed air brings fragrance to the lungs and to our day-dreams;when voluptuousness,made visible and ambient as the air,holds you in your easy-chair;when,a spoon in your hand,you sip an ice or a sorbet,the town at your feet and fair woman opposite--such Boccaccio hours can be known only in Italy and on the shores of the Mediterranean.
Imagine to yourself,round the table,the Marquis di Negro,a knight hospitaller to all men of talent on their travels,and the Marquis Damaso Pareto,two Frenchmen disguised as Genoese,a Consul-General with a wife as beautiful as a Madonna,and two silent children--silent because sleep has fallen on them--the French Ambassador and his wife,a secretary to the Embassy who believes himself to be crushed and mischievous;finally,two Parisians,who have come to take leave of the Consul's wife at a splendid dinner,and you will have the picture presented by the terrace of the villa about the middle of May--a picture in which the predominant figure was that of a celebrated woman,on whom all eyes centered now and again,the heroine of this improvised festival.
One of the two Frenchmen was the famous landscape painter,Leon de Lora;the other a well known critic Claude Vignon.They had both come with this lady,one of the glories of the fair sex,Mademoiselle des Touches,known in the literary world by the name of Camille Maupin.
Mademoiselle des Touches had been to Florence on business.With the charming kindness of which she is prodigal,she had brought with her Leon de Lora to show him Italy,and had gone on as far as Rome that he might see the Campagna.She had come by Simplon,and was returning by the Cornice road to Marseilles.She had stopped at Genoa,again on the landscape painter's account.The Consul-General had,of course,wished to do the honors of Genoa,before the arrival of the Court,to a woman whose wealth,name,and position recommend her no less than her talents.Camille Maupin,who knew her Genoa down to its smallest chapels,had left her landscape painter to the care of the diplomate and the two Genoese marquises,and was miserly of her minutes.Though the ambassador was a distinguished man of letters,the celebrated lady had refused to yield to his advances,dreading what the English call an exhibition;but she had drawn in the claws of her refusals when it was proposed that they should spend a farewell day at the Consul's villa.Leon de Lora had told Camille that her presence at the villa was the only return he could make to the Ambassador and his wife,the two Genoese noblemen,the Consul and his wife.So Mademoiselle des Touches had sacrificed one of those days of perfect freedom,which are not always to be had in Paris by those on whom the world has its eye.
